Control of the Wine Industry


Previous to the eighteenth century the wine stone type corller commerce was within the arms of small particular person retailers, and institutions on the size of recent bodegas have been fully unknown; there was no continuity of title and no information of particular person retailers have survived. Just one fashionable firm-J. M. Rivero-can hint its direct ancestry to an precedent days. This home has been buying and selling at the very least since 1653.

Its trademark is CZ, and the initials stand for Cabeza y Zarco, the household title of Don Pedro Alonso Cabeza de Aranda y Zarco, who was its founder. One among his descendants, Don Antonio Cabeza de Aranda (who was created Marques de Montana by Royal Decree in 1775) took Don Francisco Antonio de la Fixera into partnership. Don Francisco’s grand-daughter married Don Pedro Agustin Rivero, whose descendants nonetheless personal the enterprise.

Many beneficial archives have been preserved, together with marble coasters, letter books courting from 1734, and account books from 1802, which file the names of many British retailers buying and selling in Andalusia. Business information courting again to this era are uncommon, as a lot of the enterprise was carried out by phrase of mouth, to keep away from the royal taxes.

The oldest established of the various bodegas based by immigrants from the British Isles seems to be that of Rafael O’Neale. The O’Neale household fled from persecution in troubled Eire in the course of the seventeenth century, and entered the armies of France and Spain, to comply with the one occupation that was open to them.

In 1724 Timothy O’Neale, who had married into among the best native households, established his bodega in Jerez, and it’s headed as we speak by the widow of Don Enrique O’Neale, one among his descendants. To date, nonetheless, no detailed information of the historical past of the agency have come to gentle. It’s a small home promoting solely on the export markets however has some very superb wines, stone coasters, and a notably stunning bodega that features a few of the Moorish partitions of town and is designated a “Monumento Nacional.”

The oldest-established of the massive bodegas is undoubtedly that of Pedro Domecq. The Domecq household originated within the Basses-Pyrenees, and their historical past has been traced in nice element by a personal investigator, apparently to fulfill his personal curiosity, because it stays in his possession and is unpublished. It’s, nonetheless, a outstanding doc and makes fascinating studying.

Inevitably, there are components of comedy, as when a noble girl’s dowry included two cows (with bells) and a feather mattress. However primarily it’s the file of an excellent aristocratic household who had the uncommon privilege of doing obeisance to every successive king of France and presenting him with a pair of white gloves.

Like many different French aristocrats, some family members discovered it prudent to go away their native nation in the course of the eighteenth century, and their arrival in Andalusia had a profound impact on the historical past of the sherry commerce. However the Domecq bodegas hint their origin to the 12 months 1730, when the Domecq household was nonetheless in France, busy presenting white gloves to French sovereigns.

The home of Domecq was based neither by a Frenchman nor by a Spaniard, however by an Irish farmer and wine-grower known as Patrick Murphy. He got here to Spain a while previous to 1730, and though he quickly grew to become affluent, he cared little for his enterprise, as he was a bachelor and was ill. His nice good friend was Juan Haurie, who lived subsequent door in Plaza de Plateros, the place he traded as a basic service provider, with linen shops and drapers’ outlets.

In 1745, Haurie started to assist his good friend within the administration of his vineyards and when Murphy died on 21 July 1762, Haurie was his inheritor. He inherited all his properties, together with vineyards within the best areas of Macharnudo and Carrascal; and the wine enterprise so suited him that he fully deserted his different pursuits.

Haurie was a person whose intense ambition was not confined to buying fame and fortune: he additionally wished to make his wine pretty much as good because it may probably be made. However his efforts have been frequently annoyed by the restrictions of the Gremio, which prevented sherry and  shippers from accumulating the required shares of previous wine.

In 1772, the extended battle was taken to the courts, and Haurie was ultimately permitted to participate in all three branches of the commerce, changing into a grower, storekeeper and shipper. He purchased intensive bodegas and had his personal cooperage. Like his Irish good friend, he was a bachelor; together with his brothers and nephews, he went to stay in a powerful home the place there was additionally room for his workplaces.

To develop the enterprise, he based a brand new firm together with his 5 nephews; it was known as Juan Haurie y Sobrinos, and included not solely the wine enterprise, but additionally a number of farms and outlets. His principal curiosity, nonetheless, remained within the wine, and he steadily acquired new vineyards.

Juan Haurie died in 1794. Beneath the phrases of his will, all his capital remained within the enterprise and was stored undivided, as a central belief fund for the good thing about his 5 nephews equally. One among these was Pedro Lembeye, the son of Haurie’s sister Dona Maria. Lembeye’s sister had married a Domecq, and their son was named Pedro. However Pedro Domecq’s story belongs to the subsequent century, so we’ll finish this story right here.


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